Cosmetic stick

ABSTRACT

There is provided a moisturizing cosmetic stick that moisturizes, has good wear, and full and even coverage. The stick comprises: about 1% to about 35% by weight water, about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of a gelling agent, about 1% to about 5% by weight of an emulsifier, about 5% to about 10% by weight of a hard wax, about 5% to about 25% by weight of a lipophilic polar solvent, about 1% to about 5% by weight of a clay, and about 5% to about 30% by weight of a bulking agent. The present invention is also directed to a process for making such a moisturizing stick.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0001] 1. Field of the Invention

[0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic stick. Moreparticularly, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic stick forthe lips and the skin (“both of which are called the lips” in thisapplication) that has a high water content. Thus, the cosmetic stick canmoisturize and at the same time protect the lips from damage.

[0003] 2. Description of the Related Art

[0004] The incidence of ultraviolet and infrared radiation on the humanepidermis is linked to exposure to sun, and also to the lamps and dryersused in hairdressing salons. Infrared radiation may give rise to a densemultiplication of fine elastic fibers in the upper dermis and inducecarcinogenesis. Moreover, infrared radiation may cause vasodilation,raise skin temperature and cause skin erythema. To protect the lips fromdeleterious effects resulting from dryness, heat and infrared andultraviolet radiation, as well as to produce a desired cosmetic effect,a moisturizing or water based lipstick is desired.

[0005] To manufacture a conventional lipstick; fats; oils; colorants,such as dyes, pigments or lakes; and, other non-aqueous ingredients areadded to a wax base that is melted to enable the ingredients to bethoroughly mixed. Then, the mixed ingredients are cast into molds which,after cooling, provide the lipstick. In such a lipstick, water is notusually incorporated into the lipstick formulation. Therefore, thelipstick when applied to the lips does not necessarily possess thesmooth, soft attributes associated with other skin treatment productshaving water, such as skin creams, particularly those intended formoisturizing the lips.

[0006] Thus, it is desired to provide a lipstick that has themoisturizing attributes of skin products rather than conventionalwater-free lipsticks.

[0007] U.S. Pat. No. 5,085,856 to Dunphy et al. discloses a cosmeticwater-in-oil emulsion lipstick that requires, in addition to oil, wax,water and pigment, two or more emulsifiers including a phospholipid.U.S. Pat. No. 5,108,737 and 5,310,547, also to Dunphy et al., disclose acolored cosmetic lipstick and a method for coloring lips that compriseswater, a low fatty acid wax and a colorant (an aluminum salt). However,the stick must be formulated with no higher than about 0.5% by weight ofa C10 to C26 fatty acid or the lipstick would lose structure, andcertain colorants, such as barium and calcium lakes cannot be used inthis formulation.

[0008] U.S. Pat. No. 5,176,902 to Castro et al. discloses a coloredcosmetic stick comprising a natural wax, a colorant, and a C12-C60 fattyacid ester that has no C12-C60 fatty acid. The wax is treated with aC1-C60 monohydric or polyhydric alcohol to convert any C12-C60 fattyacid to the corresponding ester and to produce an esterified wax.

[0009] U.S. Pat. No. 3,957,969 to Fujiyama is directed to a cosmeticstick comprising a water-in-oil emulsion. This stick has 1 to 50% water.According to this patent, a gel is prepared from a polyhydroxy compoundand a non-ionic, surface active compound. This gel is mixed into acosmetic base, and should produce a very soft pomade that would bedifficult to manufacture.

[0010] U.S. Pat. No. 5,593,662 to Deckner et al. discloses amoisturizing lipstick essentially free of water.

[0011] Transparent lipsticks are disclosed in several patents. Forexample, U.S. Pat. No. 5,120,541 to Macaulay et al. discloses atransparent cosmetic stick composition having a lamellar structure thathas a soap crystal growth inhibitor. U.S. Pat. No. 5,427,771 to Grollieret al. also discloses a transparent composition for the skin.

[0012] Examples of lipsticks that are based on silicone derivatives aredisclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,750,095 and 5,556,613 to Arnaud et al.,while U.S. Pat. No. 4,820,510 to Arraudeau et al. discloses an anhydrouscosmetic make-up composition.

[0013] U.S. Pat. No. 5,674,508 to Deserable et al. discloses a cosmeticcomposition for composing sticks for the lips or the skin comprising ananhydrous base in which a water-in-silicone emulsion is dispersed. Theemulsion consists of an aqueous phase dispersed in a lipophilic phasecomprising one or more silicones. U.S. Pat. No. 5,672,339 to Soyama etal. discloses a composition for rouge for lips containing a volatile oilcontent, such as volatile siloxanes and isoparaffins, and awater-repellent polymer. U.S. Pat. No. 5,505,937 to Castrogiovanni etal. discloses a lipstick composition that requires a silicone ester wax.U.S. Pat. No. 5,334,372 to Kawamata et al. discloses a cosmeticcomposition requiring an alcohol-modified silicone ester derivative of aformula recited in the claim. U.S. Pat. No. 5,288,482 to Krzysik isdirected to a lipcare cosmetic composition that requires analkylmethylpolysiloxane having a specific formula disclosed in thepatent. U.S. Pat. No. 5,085,855 to Shore provides lip color formulationsthat require a dimethicone siloxane, from about 10% to 20% lanolinoil/stearalkonium hectorite gelling agent, and a hydrocarbon-derivedpolymer.

[0014] Other lipstick compositions are found in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,753,240; 5,741,499; 5,466,457; 5,342,134; 5,197,814; 4,504,464;4,492,686; 4,438,140; 3,957,969; 2,876,162 and 2,548,970; Belgian PatentNo. 752,558 and Swiss Patent No. 519,913.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0015] It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmeticstick that has a high water content.

[0016] It is another object of the present invention to provide such astick that has an even and full coverage, high shine, and good wearproperties.

[0017] It is still another object of the present invention to providesuch a stick that is not sticky to the touch, has good chemical andphotochemical stability and adhesion to the lip or skin, and does notleave a white film on the lip.

[0018] It is a further object of the present invention to provide such astick that moisturizes, has a wet feel on the lips, and the ability toincorporate water soluble ingredients into a stick, such as a lipstick,balm, pomade or pot.

[0019] It is a still further object of the present invention to providea process for making the moisturizing cosmetic stick that is easy tocommercialize.

[0020] These and other objects of the present invention are provided bya cosmetic stick that comprises a high content of water, a gellingagent, an emulsifier, a hard wax, a lipophilic solvent, a clay and abulking agent.

[0021] The present invention further provides a method of protecting thelips against the harmful effects of dryness, heat and infrared andultraviolet radiation. The method comprises the application of thecosmetic stick of the present invention onto the lips.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] The cosmetic stick of the present invention can be a stick, suchas a lipstick, pomade, balm, pot or other stick (hereinaftercollectively called “stick”). Preferably, it is a lipstick. The stickhas improved moisturizing properties, as well as good wear, even andfull coverage, high shine, adhesion, good chemical and photochemicalstability, and does not leave a white film. Also, the stick has a wetand cooling feel once applied and the ability to incorporate watersoluble ingredients. The above benefits are achieved by the ability tohave a stick with a high water content. As discussed below, the watercontent is preferably about 15% to about 25% by weight of the stick.

[0023] The cosmetic stick basically includes a water phase, an oil phaseand, if desired, a fragrance. The water phase includes water, a gellingagent and, preferably, a humectant and a moisturizer. The oil phaseincludes the other ingredients of the stick, except for the fragrance,if any.

[0024] The water forms the majority of the water phase and provides asolvent for any water-soluble ingredients present in the moisturizingstick, which is called herein a hydrostick. The water is preferablydemineralized water. The amount of water present is from about 1% toabout 35% by weight of the stick. Preferably, water is present in anamount from about 15% to about 35%, more preferably about 15% by weightto about 25% by weight, and most preferably about 20% by weight of thestick. It is this high water content that provides many benefits of thepresent stick.

[0025] The gelling agent, the second ingredient in the water phase, isabout 0.1% to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.1% to about 5% byweight of the stick. However, the gelling agent is more preferably about1.5% to about 2.5% by weight of the stick. The gelling agent can be, forexample, one or more polymethacrylates, carbomers, cellulosics, waterswellable Lucentite SWN, and Vee gums. The preferred gelling agent isglyceryl polymethacrylate.

[0026] As stated above, the water phase may include one or morehumectants and moisturizers. The humectants and moisturizers are about0.001% to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1.0% to about 3.0% byweight, and more preferably about 1.6% by weight of the stick. Thepreferred humectant is glycerin. The preferred moisturizer is hyaluronicacid sodium salt.

[0027] The ratio of water phase to the oil phase is 2:3 to 1:5. Thewater phase is preferably about 25% by weight of the stick, while theoil phase is preferably about 75% by weight of the stick. The oil phaseincludes one or more emulsifiers, hard wax, lipophilic solvent, clay andbulking agents, such as powder fillers. The oil phase may include otheringredients such as waxes, preservatives, bulking agents and colorants.

[0028] The emulsifier acts to uniformly disperse the ingredients. Theemulsifier is about 1% to about 5% by weight of the stick. Preferably,the emulsifier is about 2% by weight of the stick.

[0029] The emulsifiers suitable for use in the present invention arepreferably polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, and secondary emulsifiers,such as fatty acid alcohols. Such emulsifier systems includepolygylceryl-10 pentastearate/behenyl alcohol.

[0030] The present invention includes one or more hard waxes, preferablywith a high melting point, namely greater than 80 degrees C. A hard waxis one having a needle penetration (mm/10) in the range of 2 to 8 basedon ASTM-D-1321. The hard wax of the present invention is present in anamount about 5% to about 10% by weight of the stick. Preferably, it isabout 7% by weight of the stick. The hard wax is preferablypolyethylene, more preferably linear polyethylene, and ozokerite. Thus,the most preferred hard wax is a combination of linear polyethylene andozokerite.

[0031] The present stick may include other waxes in the oil phase. Forexample, these waxes include natural waxes, and paraffin and syntheticwaxes. Such waxes include, but are not limited to: candelilla, microwax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof. The total amount of these otherwaxes if present in the hydrostick is about 3% to about 4% by weight ofthe stick.

[0032] The present stick also includes a lipophilic polar solvent in itsoil phase. This solvent is present in an amount about 5% to about 25% byweight of the stick, preferably about 19% by weight of the stick. Thepreferred lipophilic polar solvent is a C12-15 alcohol benzoate.

[0033] The oil phase of the present stick also includes athickener/gelling agent and a bulking agent that act asstructure-enhancing agents. These agents provide body and strength tothe moisturizing hydrostick thereby making it free-standing and capableof retaining its original shape. This attribute is especially helpful inthe commercialization since the stick must maintain its structure.

[0034] A structure-enhancing agent suitable for use in the moisturizinghydrostick of the present invention is a clay. The clays include lithiummagnesium silicate also known as smectite clay, bentonite clay, alsoknown as wilkinite, montmorillonite represented by the formulaAl2O3.4SiO2.H2O, and mixtures thereof. Lithium magnesium silicate orsmectite clay is preferred.

[0035] Smectite clays can be natural or synthetic. Synthetic smectiteclays are preferred over the naturally occurring varieties since theytypically have a lower impurity content. Such synthetic smectite SANclay is distributed by Kobo Products Inc. and manufactured by NikkoChemicals Co., Ltd. Kobo Products Inc. have disclosed the structure oftheir synthetic smectite clay, called Lucentite SAN, as including 60.00to 70.00 percent lithium magnesium sodium silicate having the followingempirical formula: (Na0-0.33(Mg2.67Li0.33)(Si4O4)(OH)2) and 30.00 to40.00 percent quaternium-18 ([R2N(CH3)2], where R is C16-C18 alkyl).Kobo Products Inc. have also stated that quaternium-18 is not reactedwith lithium magnesium sodium silicate to form the Lucentite SAN.

[0036] The smectite clay has the property of forming highly viscoussuspensions or gels. The smectite clay is preferably gelled with a polarlipophilic hydrocarbon-based solvent. The most preferred solventscontain an aromatic group, namely benzoate esters, such as C12-15alcohols benzoate (Finsolv TN), and salicylate esters. However, thesolvent C12-15 alcohol lactate is also preferred, since it also swellsthe synthetic smectite effectively.

[0037] Preferably, the amount of the smectite clay in the moisturizinghydrostick of the present invention is from about 1% to about 5% byweight of the stick. More preferably, the amount of the smectite clay isabout 2% by weight of the stick.

[0038] The bulking agents add structure enhancing properties to thestick. Such bulking agents include mica, barium sulfate, nylon, talc,starch, calcium carbonate, silica, and mixtures thereof. The bulkingagents and colorants are present in an amount about 5% to about 30% byweight, and preferably about 5% to about 15% by weight of the stick. Thebulking agent is more preferably present in an amount about 11% of thestick.

[0039] Colorants and pigments in powder form may also function asbulking agents. Such colorants include, for example, inorganic andorganic colorants, such as barium lakes, calcium lakes, aluminum lakes,titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides. It has been found that thepresent stick does not limit the use of the type of colorants, unlikeprior art water containing lipsticks.

[0040] The hydrostick with the smectite clay and bulking agent hassuperior stick integrity and lattice strength, even at reduced waxlevels. This imparts to the finished stick a smooth and creamyconsistency. Moreover, the compositions containing the agents do notneed to be extruded or compressed to form a cake or stick. The finishedstick has improved stability over time and over a wide range oftemperatures thus facilitating commercialization. In addition, clear,true colors can be provided.

[0041] A fragrance and/or flavor may be included in the present stick inan amount about 0.1% to about 2.0% by weight of the stick. As statedabove, the fragrance and/or flavor preferably is neither in the oil northe water phase, but is added separately.

[0042] The water and the oil phases provide the cosmetic stick withabout 1% to about 35% by weight water, about 0.1% to about 8% by weightof the gelling agent, about 1% to about 5% by weight of the emulsifier,about 5% to about 10% by weight of the hard wax, about 5% to about 25%by weight of the lipophilic polar solvent, about 1% to about 5% byweight of the clay, and about 5% to about 30% the bulking agent.

[0043] The moisturizing hydrostick of the present invention may containother ingredients in the oil phase, such as, for example, one or morepigments, thickeners, skin protectants, preservatives or stabilizers,and vitamins. The hydrostick may also include one or more perfumes,antioxidants, UV-absorbers (e.g. screening agents or sunscreens),germicides, and lipid materials.

[0044] The present invention may include one or more emollients. Thetotal amount of the emollients present is about 20% to about 25% byweight of the stick.

[0045] The preferred emollients include: polytriglycerylerucate/eleostearate, avocado, lanolin, preferably low odor,diisostearyl fumarate, myristyl lactate, and mixtures thereof. Thepolytriglyceryl erucate/eleostearate is a film forming emollient that ispreferable as an emollient in the present stick. This particularemollient is present in an amount about 5% to about 10% by weight, andpreferably about 6.5% by weight of the stick.

[0046] The present stick may also include one or more preservatives.These preservatives are present in an amount about 0.1% to about 3% byweight, and preferably about 0.5% by weight of the stick. Preferredpreservatives include: EDTA, iodopropynylbutyl carbamate,4-hydroxybenzoic acid, its esters and derivatives, such as methyl4-hydroxybenzoate (methyl paraben), ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben), propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (propyl paraben) and butyl4-hydroxybenzoate (butyl paraben). The most preferred preservativesinclude methyl paraben, propyl paraben and iodopropynylbutyl carbamate,and mixtures thereof.

[0047] The formula may also contain UV stabilizers and antioxidants,such as BHT, BHA, benzophenones such as: 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4″-dimethoxybenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid and itssalts, 2,2′,4,4′-tetrahydroxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid and its salts,4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4′-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate,2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone and4-hydroxy-3-benzophenonecarboxylic acid and its salts; benzotriazolederivatives such as 2-(2′-hydroxy-5′-methylphenyl)-2H-benzotriazole,2-(2′-hydroxy-5′-tert-octylphenyl)-2H-benzotriazole,2-(2′-hydroxy-3′,5′-di-tert-octylphenyl)-2H-benzotriazole,2-(2′-hydroxy-5′-cumylphenyl)-2H-benzotriazole and2-(2′-hydroxy-3′,5′-di-cumylphenyl)-2H-benzotriazole; disubstitutedmethane derivatives such as dianisoyl methane, 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane and 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxy dibenzoyl methane.

[0048] The present stick may include a skin protectant, such as, forexample, allantoin. Allantoin would be present in an amount about 0.1%to about 3% by weight, and preferably in an amount about 0.55% by weightof the stick.

[0049] The preferred stick may also include vitamins, such as, forexample, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), and vitamins A and C, and betacarotene. Such vitamins are present in an amount about 0.1% to about 3%by weight, and preferably in an amount about 0.55% by weight of thestick.

[0050] The hydrostick of the present invention can take the form of asolid stick, such as, a lipstick, pomade, balm, pot, lip-gloss or of acream that can be applied to the skin or the lips.

[0051] The present stick permits the use of high acid value substances,such as natural oils and waxes, having up to 2% free fatty acids withoutthe stick losing its structure. In addition, the present stick,especially when used as a lipstick, provides a wet, cool, smoothrefreshing or creamy feel, and applies evenly. Still further, thepresent stick can be made using conventional lipstick molding equipment.

[0052] The present invention includes a process for preparing themoisturizing hydrostick. The process includes forming the oil phase andthe water phase, separately. Then, the two phases are mixed togetheruntil uniform, the fragrance/flavor is added and then poured into in asingle row cavity or a single cavity mold. The mold should then bechilled at a low temperature, namely about 35 to about 40 degrees F, fora short period of time, namely less than ten minutes. This chillingprocess is important for the production of the final stick.

[0053] The hydrostick of the present invention is suitable for the lips,especially for applying to the lips a long lasting color with pleasantaesthetics to the lips. The hydrostick can also be used as a vehicle fora skin care agent to protect against exposure to adverse weather,including the wind and rain or extended exposure to sunlight.

[0054] The present invention is further illustrated by the followingexample, which is designed to illustrate the invention without limitingits scope.

[0055] Obvious modifications and variations of the invention can be madewithout departing from the scope of the present invention as defined bythe appended claims.

Wherefore we claim:
 1. A moisturizing cosmetic stick that moisturizes,has good wear, and full and even coverage, comprising: a water phasebeing about 1% to about 40% by weight of the stick, said water phasehaving water and a gelling agent, wherein said water is in an amountabout 15% to about 35% by weight of the stick; and an oil phase beingabout 99% to about 60% by weight of the stick.
 2. The stick of claim 1 ,wherein said oil phase includes, based on the weight of the stick, about1% to about 5% by weight of an emulsifier, about 5% to about 8% byweight of a hard wax, about 5% to about 25% by weight of a lipophilicpolar solvent, about 1% to about 5% by weight of a clay, and about 5% toabout 30% by weight of a bulking agent.
 3. The stick of claim 1 ,wherein said gelling agent is about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of thestick.
 4. A moisturizing cosmetic stick, comprising about 1% to about35% by weight water; about 0.1% to about 8% by weight of a gellingagent; about 1% to about 5% by weight of an emulsifier; about 5% toabout 10% by weight of a hard wax; about 5% to about 25% by weight of alipophilic polar solvent; about 1% to about 5% by weight of a clay; andabout 5% to about 30% by weight of a bulking agent.
 5. The stick ofclaim 4 , further comprising other waxes and colorants.
 6. The stick ofclaim 4 , wherein said gelling agent is about 1.5% to about 2.5% byweight of the stick.
 7. The stick of claim 4 , wherein said gellingagent is glyceryl polymethacrylate.
 8. The stick of claim 4 , whereinsaid emulsifier is a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
 9. The stick ofclaim 4 , wherein said hard wax is selected from the group consisting ofpolyethylene, ozokerite and mixtures thereof.
 10. The stick of claim 5 ,wherein said other waxes include natural waxes, paraffins and syntheticwaxes.
 11. The stick of claim 4 , wherein said lipophilic polar solventis C12-15 alcohol benzoates.
 12. The stick of claim 4 , wherein saidclays are selected from a group consisting of lithium magnesiumsilicate, bentonite, montmorillonite, and mixtures thereof.
 13. Thestick of claim 4 , wherein said clay is about 1% to about 3% by weightof the stick.
 14. The stick of claim 4 , wherein said bulking agent isselected from the group consisting of nylon, talc, starch, calciumcarbonate, silica, barium sulfate, mica and mixtures thereof.
 15. Thestick of claim 4 , further comprising a colorant that is selected fromthe group consisting of calcium lakes, barium lakes, aluminum lakes,titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.
 16. The stick ofclaim 4 , wherein the stick is a lipstick.
 17. A moisturizing cosmeticstick, comprising: about 15% to about 25% by weight of water; about 0.1%to about 5% by weight of a gelling agent; about 1% to about 5% by weightof an emulsifier; about 5% to about 10% by weight of a hard wax; about5% to about 25% by weight of a lipophilic polar solvent; about 1% toabout 5% by weight of a clay; and about 5% to about 15% by weight of abulking agent.
 18. The stick of claim 17 , further comprising otherwaxes.
 19. The stick of claim 17 , further comprising colorants.
 20. Aprocess for making a moisturizing stick comprising: forming an oilphase; forming a water phase; mixing the oil phase and the water phasetogether in a mold; and chilling the mold at a temperature about 35 toabout 40 degrees F, for less than ten minutes to form the stick.